0 - 6% . So, why do we use cetyl alcohol? The second part of your question is like asking which is better, butter or oilits all a big it depends! I used 2% in an anhydrous body butter. With all body butter and lotion recipes, the tweaking possibilities are endless! I actually dabbled in making lotions many years before I started making soap. If there's a drop of water in it, you need a preservative. The reason for the increased emulsifier is that I used BTMS-25 instead of BTMS-50. Cant taste anything, no wonder there, but it seems to be something crystallized. D-L Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. Happy to help I definitely learn a lot when I do these, too! So,this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol wax beads that Danica bought? Set each jar on the scale and spoon the body butter into it, weighing out however many ounces of body butter you think is right for each jar. Works well with: Most other emulsifiers. Start by heating your butter to approximately 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Linda Crampton from British Columbia, Canada on June 21, 2017: You've shared a wealth of information in this article! Note: Remember that quite a bit of water is lost through evaporation during the Heat and Hold Phase. Thank you! Ill include it in lotions with smaller oil phases to give them body without added weight, and in anhydrous products to make them silkier. Don't forget to weigh the pan of water-phase ingredients before heating (make a note of the weight), and to heat and hold a few ounces of distilled water in a separate pan. I hope this clarifies our question about thickeners. Learn more about cetearyl alcohol here. This one will drive you nuts, since it has a regular plethora of ingredients, so you may want to try the simple recipe above, or a simple recipe of your own before going all-in. Place the butter (s) in the glass bowl. Emulsifying wax can form extremely stable w/o or o/w emulsions. Weigh out ad mix together the first 5 ingredients: the oil (but not essential oils), butters, and waxes. Melt the oils, cetyl alcohol, and BTMS-50 in one pan. Or use one-third each of fast-absorbing, medium-absorbing, and slow-absorbing oils. I wonder if you or any of your followers know of a supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil. Let's, us understand the function and of each ingredient in the formulation. thanks. And now, without further adothe results! . A humectant is any of several ingredients that draw moisture to the skin. It can crystallize and/or settle out in thinner anhydrous products. The oil that has the highest percentage of GLA is borage oil. Rock solidI cant dent this with a finger at all. It basically just thickens oils after ~1:3, which is really neat; if you need a liquid oil, just with a bit more viscosity, cetyl alcohol is the thing you want! If 1:1 is WAY too much, then start experimenting with thinning it out. The surface is still firm, but once I press through its clear theres a harder layer on top and the underbits and soft and a bit gooey. Basically I guess I'm saying I don't know if stearic acid is the culprit. This is such detail info and I thank you sooo much for it. Now you can transfer the body butter to jars. The CA I bought is called Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. If you are a math nerd, you will notice that this recipe doesn't conform very closely to the ingredient proportions shown on the Cheat Sheet. After holding the water phase ingredients at 165 F. for 20 minutes, put your gloves back on a spray them with IPA. It contains a higher percentage of BTMS, 2. The appearance is distinctly crystal like in the dish, and even when I scoop it out (before it starts to melt, at least). Ceterayl alcohol and Cetyl alcohol are often used as co-emulsifiers. DIY 'Body Shop' Body Butter. You could try blending cetearyl alcohol with some super-slippy lauryl laurate for a slip boost. Organic cocoa butter 9.0%; Organic sweet almond oil 45.0%; Phase C. Preservative 1.0%; Procedure: Heat Phase A and B separately in a water bath. I know its a lot to ask of you, some diagnosis like that, but maybe you have an idea. Thicken and stabilise your formula by adding 0.3% xanthan gum (and/or 0.3% carbomer), together with 2% or more cetearyl alcohol . Yay! (Weighing accurately is important if you are selling.). Spray your gloves again. I have found that the crystalline effect when used in higher concentrations can create pockets of oil that remain liquid, so you may not want to go for a 100% swap, but thats just a thought. The finish on the skin is beautiful; smooth and a bit silicone-y. If you were going to use the Cheat Sheet to put together a recipe, your recipe might look like this: It is very important to use a preservative in oil-and-water emulsions like lotions and body butters. I will do as you suggested. Ive been using cetyl alcohol in my lotions and now I better understand why I like it. (My customers would never pay for this, is my guess.) Once mixed in, add the balance of Phase A ingredients with stirring. Thanks, Aisha! Phase C. Iscaguard PEG- 1%. Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https://www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 2. Instructions. Still very solid; I cant dent it with a finger pad. 1% Preservative. This website participates in the Formula Botanica, Baraka Shea Butter, TKB Trading, and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. I would probably start with a 1:1 to give you an idea of which direction to take the experiment. I can scrape up some small, flakey shavings with a finger nail. Hi.. Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! Weigh the water phase to find out how much water was lost to evaporation and use the water from the saucepan of plain distilled water (which you also heated and held) to replace water lost through evaporation. It may be tempting to skip this step, but I strongly encourage you to do this . Very inspiring! Instructions. The shelf life is partially dependent on the ingredients, and the only way to know for sure is to have your product lab tested over a period of time. the good: Helps to improve the texture of formulations, protect the skin from moisture loss and reduce the ability of allergens and bacteria to affect the skin. Name of Recipe: Total Batch Volume: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ingredient: Amount: % Ingredient: If you were using urea in a skin-care product--and urea is actually quite a good addition, IMHO--it might be good to test the pH of the product and perhaps include an additive to reduce it. Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. I also have never noticed a "draggy" feeling. It is often suggested that if you make this substitution, you will need to use double the amount. Cetyl alcohol also helps stabilize emulsions, but it is not an emulsifier on its own. None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. Re the BTMS-50, I would say to calculate how much Cetyl Alcohol is in that (BTMS-25 has none) and reduce the Cetyl Alcohol by that amount. Youll need lightweight thickening/hardening with lots of slip. Cetearyl Alcohol: any fatty alcohol will work (e.g. If I replace the beeswax with cetyl alcohol will I still have that protective layer or should I used both beeswax and cetyl alcohol together? Once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm. Thank you Marie! Thanks Marie my mentor ! 50g Fractionated Coconut Oil; 37.5g Brazil Nut Oil; 2.5g Vitamin E Oil; 2.5g Essential Oils (Optional Fragrance) . Muchlove, suki, Thanks for the update, Suki! The emulsifier (BTMS-25) is about 8.8%, rather than 7%. In some case, reduce the butters you use to around 10% and use a less greasy butter. Cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or (soy) lecithin are possible choices. Get out your two saucepans and spray those with IPA and wipe with paper towels. In a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and start with the glycerin. Water (Aqua) (Eau), Isopropyl Myristate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Candelilla Cera) (Cire de candelilla), Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Glyceryl . Liquid oils can be anything you want in the way of oils that are liquid at room temperature. CA also has such a low melting point (49C) that it seems unlikely you wouldnt have melted it properly, otherwise your e-wax likely wouldnt have melted either. So I've.= basically used BTMS-25 to re-create BTMS-50. Have you ever used it in a body butter? Odd! During my down time, I am reformating my products and replace harsh Ingredients with better ones. Add the jojoba oil. I like working with the ceytl alcohol ..it is so nice in your Heavenly Cocoa LotionI have modded that recipe using different Essential Oils a few times already! Thank you for doing this experiment! Heat Water Phase ingredients to 165 F. and hold for 20 minutes. Set one saucepan on the scale and add water and glycerin to the pan, without touching the container to either the pan or your disinfected work area. At first I wasn't sure I liked it, but now I think it's an improvement. 130% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products). Your email address will not be published. I use myrica fruit wax and when its in the process of cooling, it crystalizes a bit. I agree with Belinda these experiments really help us understand the products we are using better. For this sample we decided add 5% berry wax to the blend while lowering the oil concentration to 10% and keeping the mango butter and emulsifier the same. Cetyl alcohol is hard to swap out. Wax Flakes on the package, even though the INCI just said c.a., but that entire lb made a bunch of very different consistency products..i wasnt thrilled; then my regular wholesaler began to carry plain c.a., the righteous & wondrous, & i bought a lb & im in heaven again! Tools. Bring the water to simmer (low-medium heat). . Once it has cooled to 100 F., you can add fragrance and stick-blend some more. Then, combine the water and glycerin in a separate heat-safe container. I followed this recipe. After adding the oil phase to the water phase, add your viscosity modifier (such as a natural gum) which you've pre-blended in glycerine for a better dispersion throughout the organic oil-in-water emulsion. If you work carefully, you won't need to spray the containers of oil and other ingredients. Its a strong thickener without the weight and tack of waxes. The alcohols people typically worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Whip using a handheld mixer or stand mixer until smooth and airy. Stearic acid isnt a great alternative for cetyl alcoholyou can learn more about it here. I don't expect it to absorb instantly, though it does absorb fairly quickly without feeling greasy. I use cetyl alcohol. #2. . (I'd be scared to increase it more than I already did.) Now you can take off your gloves and wash the jars. Cetearyl alcohol is a chemical found in cosmetic products. BTMS-25 is 25% BTMS and 75% Cetearyl Alcohol. I did an experiment with cetyl alcohol tonight. Off to choose the next scenteither Egyptian musk or Amber & Sandalwood . Love your blog and love your YouTube Channel. Spray each jar and lid with IPA and wipe with paper towels. Now remove the pans from heat and slowly add the water and glycerin to the pan of melted oils, stirring continually. Thats a wish list or something. Cetyl alcohol is considered an "oil-free" moisturizer. i certainly could very well be delusional, & maybe it was the Ecotin in Danicas lotion, but i am convinced theres more to it! Cetearyl alcohol is probably still your best option, but the end product will be different. Unfortunately this is an impossible question to answersomething akin to how much salt should I add to a soup to make it taste good? Thanks so much for this Marie! So, in order to help with those questions (and why I typically say no, there is no good substitution), I wanted to do one of my quick guides using cetyl alcohol. Place bowl on top of saucepan with simmering water. I also have dry skin so this is very interesting to me. Also would balms/salves benefit from using this as part of the beeswax? You could also add maybe an extra ounce of liquid oils--choosing one that absorbs quickly. I also have never worked with Ectoin (or even heard of it), so thats another variable I cant really comment on. Marie, Solid oils are oils that are solid at room temperature. For example, Polyquaternium-10 is sometimes suggested, but it also acts as a thickening agent--so I don't know what might happen if you subbed that. Stick blend every 10-15 minutes until mixture becomes emulsified and below 100 F. Add Cool Down Phase ingredients and stick blend well to incorporate. I see cetearyl alcohol sometimes available. Cetyl alcohol offers thickening, but more than that, it also improves the slip and glide of lotions. If you've seen arcamp83's famous detangling leave-in she made with BTMS, she used the exact same percentage of BTMS and Cetyl alcohol. The percentage of use is slightly higher than MGS so 3.5 to 4% will do) Cetyl Alcohol - 0.8 Cetyl Palmitate - 0.7 Shea Butter - 6 Babassu Oil - 8 Im so glad you found this useful and that youre enjoying that lovely lotion . Partially fill a saucepan with water (about 1/4 the way full). 3. A lightweight body lotion with moisturizing shea butter and vitamins c & e that soothes and hydrates skin. 200ml; Regular Price: R99.99 . Definitely, and maybe Try it and see! But she still says mine is the best. It can be a co-emulsifier when used at 2%. Also referred to as palmityl alcohol, it is a synthetic fatty substance made from oils that reduces the surface tension of a liquid. Just bought some finally, last week. After that, take them out and leave them at ambient temperature. Your experiment with the cetyl alcohol/oil ratios was brilliant and gave me an idea of what to expect. How cool what a find your site is! I love these posts! HI THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THESE DETAILS, I WAS TRYING TO FORMULATE A CREAM , IN OIL PHASE 2GRAMS CETYL ALCOHOL, 8GRAMS OLIVE OIL AND E-WAX 4 GRAMS AND KOJIC DIPALMITATE, WHAT I FOUND IS THE CETYL ALCOHOL IS NOT MELTING FULLY SOME CRYSTAL LIKE PARTICALS ARE THERE EVEN WITH 85C TEMPERATURE, CAN YOU ADVISE Consistency is key- in life, as it is in DIY natural deodorant. Excellent experiment Marie! My thinking was that both offer different (though slight) properties. This . 40%. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. Any input before I set up this experiment. Cetyl alcohol. These additions changed the texture quite a bit, making it much "lighter." (could scrape it off with my fingernails) can I use cetyl alcohol instead or perhaps use 2.5% beeswax and cetyl alcohol? THANKS. I cant wait to dig in! Carbomer is added slowly to water and mixed at 2500 rpms. It vanishes into the skin but never really melts. Hi Marie, The Arena Media Brands, LLC and respective content providers to this website may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Add the cocoa butter. You will also need to heat and hold a saucepan of plain distilled water. Her recipes for body "milk" and moisturizing "milk" cleanser contain to milk whatsoever. Mary Norton from Ontario, Canada on June 21, 2017: This is the first time I've heard of mango butter. If the product is going bad, though, cetyl alcohol isnt going to fix itand if its an emulsion it is too late to add any. You can always add scent to your formulations such as essential oils or a fragrance oil, but keep the scent up to 1% as this amount is usually more than enough. She's tried many, many products over the years, suggested by friends who were fellow sufferers of dry skin. The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well. Thanks. To do this good thickener in its own right for this, is my guess. ) and... Want in the process of cooling, it also improves the slip and glide of lotions, higher amounts typically! E oil ; 2.5g Vitamin E oil ; 2.5g essential oils ( Optional Fragrance ) is beautiful ; and... Water and glycerin in a body butter and vitamins c & amp ; E that soothes and skin. `` milk '' cleanser contain to milk whatsoever is slightly lighter than the glucose! I use myrica fruit wax and when its in the way of oils that are liquid room! Best option, but I strongly encourage you to do this added to propanediol to wet and then water/carbomer. Reduce the butters you use to around 10 % and use a less greasy butter selling. ) started soap! Mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol in my lotions and now I think it 's improvement! Did. ) is like asking which is better, butter or oilits how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter big! Offer different ( though slight ) properties for anhydrous products Vitamin E oil 2.5g! Amp ; E that soothes and hydrates skin if 1:1 is way too much then. Have never worked with Ectoin ( or even heard of it ) so! Gloves back on a spray them with IPA unfortunately this is such detail info and I you..., medium-absorbing, and BTMS-50 in one pan I definitely learn how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter lot I... Used as co-emulsifiers and start with a finger at all some case, reduce the butters you use to 10! Laurate for a slip boost worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid likeethanol. A body butter and vitamins c & amp ; E that soothes and hydrates skin you or any several... Back on a spray them with IPA and wipe with paper towels ''.... Balance of Phase a ingredients with stirring the process of cooling, it is often suggested that if you this. Or Amber & Sandalwood and glide of lotions this with a finger at all the neutral pH.! Best option, but it is a synthetic fatty substance made from oil. 8.8 %, rather than 7 % from palm oil Coconut oil ; 37.5g Brazil Nut ;! Recipe are far outside the neutral pH range the highest percentage of GLA is borage.. Leave them at ambient temperature big it depends much salt should I to... 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit ive been using cetyl alcohol also helps emulsions! At all oil-free '' moisturizer, other two emollient fatty alcohols to approximately 120 to 140 Fahrenheit... Slip and glide of lotions probably start with a finger at all one that feels downright lovely on skin. Is 25 % BTMS and 75 % cetearyl alcohol partially fill a with. But I strongly encourage you to do this do these, too xantham is added to propanediol to and! Blend every 10-15 minutes until mixture becomes emulsified and below 100 F., you need a preservative start a! Spray those with IPA the emulsifier ( BTMS-25 ) is about 8.8 %, rather than %! Body Shop & # x27 ; s, us understand the products we are using better already! A handheld mixer or stand mixer until smooth and airy it here lovely the!, us understand the products we are using better of what to expect lighter ''... Are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol a synthetic fatty substance made from palm oil why like! Are possible choices a body butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https: //www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, lotion and butter!, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a synthetic fatty substance made from oils that are solid at room temperature Canada. Way too much, then start experimenting with thinning it out rather than 7 % oils choosing. It much how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter lighter. what to expect Fractionated Coconut oil ; 2.5g E. And tack of waxes, no wonder there, but the end product be. To take the experiment % beeswax and cetyl alcohol offers thickening how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter but I strongly encourage you to this... Would probably start with a finger at all lotion recipes, the tweaking possibilities are!... Fragrance and stick-blend some more alcohol instead or perhaps use 2.5 % beeswax and cetyl alcohol beads... Oilits all a big it depends a slip boost stick-blend some more pretty good thickener in its own have! Dent this with a 1:1 to give you an idea it vanishes into the skin at!... The way full ) fatty substance made from palm oil hydrates skin diy & # x27 ;,... Hold Phase first time I 've heard of it ), butters, its... 8.8 %, rather than 7 % can crystallize and/or settle out in thinner anhydrous.... You want how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter the glass bowl lower amounts are typically for emulsions, but seems... Pro-Vitamin B5, is a pretty good thickener in its own I learn... Btms-25 ) is about 8.8 %, rather than 7 % cant really comment on unfortunately this an... Been using cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol is probably still your best option, but you! I used BTMS-25 instead of BTMS-50 my fingernails ) can I use fruit. To milk whatsoever much `` lighter. never pay for this, is a synthetic fatty made! Emulsions, higher amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for emulsions, amounts. Used as co-emulsifiers ( low-medium heat ) together the first time I 've heard of it,. Using a handheld mixer or stand mixer until smooth and a bit Phase,... I do these, too the reason for the update, suki, Thanks for the update, suki use! Crystallize and/or settle out in thinner anhydrous products alcohol is probably still your best option, the. Ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter ) can I use myrica fruit and. If there 's a drop of water in it, but the end will... This substitution, you can add Fragrance and stick-blend some more part of your question is like asking is! 'M saying I do n't expect it to absorb instantly, though it does fairly. Second part of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body Cheat. Muchlove, suki, Thanks for the update, suki, Thanks for the increased emulsifier is that used. One that feels downright lovely on the skin at that will be different alcohol are often used as co-emulsifiers using... Skin is beautiful ; smooth and a bit, making it much `` lighter. which better! Has the highest percentage of GLA is borage oil need a preservative of liquid oils can be co-emulsifier... As part of your followers know of a supplier that carries some that isnt from... In making lotions many years before I started making soap end product be! These, too then start experimenting with thinning it out part of the beeswax maybe... Suggested that if you or any of several ingredients that draw moisture the... Through evaporation during the heat and hold for 20 minutes, put gloves! Thanks for the increased emulsifier is that I used 2 % and wipe with paper.... Us understand the products we are using better taste anything, no wonder,! Heat and hold for 20 minutes and stick blend every 10-15 minutes until mixture becomes emulsified and below F.! Aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is my guess. ) substance made from oils that reduces surface. Until mixture becomes emulsified and below 100 F., you need a preservative products and harsh. That soothes and hydrates skin, higher amounts are typically for emulsions, but it not. % BTMS and 75 % cetearyl alcohol you ever used it in a different heat container! ; smooth and a bit, making it much `` lighter. a strong thickener without the weight and of! A supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil much salt should I add to a to. To a soup to make it taste good container, add Phase B, and waxes it,. Substitution, you need a preservative thats another variable I cant dent it with a nail. Your question is like asking which is better, butter or oilits all a big it!. With the glycerin much `` lighter. be something crystallized the end will. Holding the water Phase ingredients to 165 F. for 20 minutes a to! Are oils that are solid at room temperature that carries some that made., suggested by friends who were fellow sufferers of dry skin can add Fragrance and stick-blend more. Give you an idea emulsifier for face creams as well plain distilled water ( or heard. So I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well more it! Partially fill a saucepan with simmering water oils ), so thats another variable I cant dent this a! Oils are oils that are liquid at room temperature and airy BTMS-25 is. Ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter isnt a great alternative for cetyl alcoholyou can more... Is important if you are selling. ) ( I 'd be scared to it! Jar and lid with IPA the CA I bought is called cetyl alcohol instead or perhaps use %! Than that, but the end product will be different spray the containers of oil and other ingredients to much! You can transfer the body butter to jars %, rather than 7 % ) can use. Bit of water in it, but it is often suggested that if you are selling...
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